Ithaca Greece: Complete guide to the island of Odysseus

Ithaca (also known as Ithaki) is a small island in the Ionian Sea, located off the northeastern coast of Kefalonia in western Greece. It is the legendary homeland of Odysseus, the hero of Homer’s epic poem, The Odyssey. With a permanent population of just ~3,000 people, Ithaca is one of Greece’s most authentic and unspoiled island destinations.

Ithaca in Greece is everything the over-touristed Aegean islands are not: green, wild, unhurried, and deeply mythological. This is the island that Odysseus spent ten years trying to return to, and once you visit, you’ll understand exactly why.

General Information

• Ithaca is one of the Ionian Islands and the second-smallest.

• Ithaca was first inhabited during the Neolithic Age, before the Homeric era. Although several excavations have found many archaeological sites, such as Pilikata, the palace of Odysseus has not yet been discovered.

• The Greek poet Constantine Cavafy was inspired by Homer’s Ithaca and wrote one of his best poems in 1910.

• According to tradition, in Ithaca and more specifically in Kioni, lived before the revolution in 21′, George Karaiskakis. Today, only the outer walls and the openings in the windows and doors survive.

How to Get to Ithaca

Ithaca has no airport. The nearest is Kefalonia Airport (EFL), ~50km away. All routes to Ithaca go via the sea.

From Athens by road + ferry (most common): Drive or take a bus to Astakos (Aitoloakarnania). There you can find a daily ferry to Pisaetos, Ithaca (~2.5–3.5 hours). Alternatively, drive to Patras, then ferry via Sami (Kefalonia) to Pisaetos.

From Kefalonia: Short ferry from Sami or Poros (Kefalonia) to Pisaetos, Ithaca. Great option if you’re combining both islands.

From Lefkada: Ferry from Vasiliki (Lefkada) to Frikes or Sami–Ithaca route.

Book all ferry tickets on Ferryscanner, compare routes, companies, and prices in one place.

Getting around Ithaca: A car is essential to explore the whole island; distances are short (the longest ~30km), but roads are narrow and winding. Rent in Vathy or bring it from the mainland. Book on Discovercars.com. Buses run 2 routes daily, Vathy↔north villages. Taxis are available in Vathy Square.

Transportation

Car: The island is relatively small, and the distances are short, with the longest being less than 30 kilometers. You will encounter many narrow bends on Ithaca’s roads that will not allow you to speed up.

Bus: The Ithaca bus service runs 2 routes daily, from Vathi to the villages in the northern part of the island and back. The times vary depending on the season.

Taxi: For more comfort in your travels, taxis at the taxi stand in the central square in Vathi will serve you. Initially, upon arrival at the port of Piso Aetos, the taxi is the only means of transport, as there is no municipal or other public transport.

Boats: Ideal for those who want to visit the island’s beautiful beaches that are not accessible by road. The island’s boats run daily. For the tour of Ithaca or even for daily excursions to the nearby islands, the boats depart from Vathi, where you will be informed about the timetables and destinations.

Boat rental: To have more autonomy in your travels, we recommend renting a boat or a small boat. Find out the prices from their owners in Vathi, who will show you how to drive them yourself and suggest the most beautiful routes.

Best beaches in Ithaca

Filiatro

The most crowded and cosmopolitan beach of Ithaca. Filiatro is located in the south of the island, a 15-minute drive from Vathi. The road to Filiatro is narrow, with sharp bends, and the parking area is usually not large enough to accommodate many cars.

Half the length of the beach is covered with sunbeds and umbrellas, on the right-hand side, and there is the stylish café-beach bar Kirki, where you can get your coffee/refreshment/snack. Here, the pebbles are large, but as you walk towards the left part of the beach, the pebbles get smaller and smaller, until they become sand at the end. Filiatro is a narrow bay with crystal clear turquoise waters and lush greenery all around. Behind the beach, there is a small olive grove that offers shade to visitors, and many even choose to camp there (although free camping is illegal ).

Bonus Tip: Swim along the shoreline to the right of the beach, and you will discover a very beautiful little ‘private’ beach. There you will find complete tranquility, far from the cosmopolitan Filiatro.

Skinos

In the homonymous bay and just 3 km from Vathi, is the beach of Skinos. Here, the waters are crystal clear and sheltered, while the dense vegetation of pine and cypress trees will offer you shade and coolness. The mountain Niritos, opposite, “shelters” the beach, keeping the waters calm and offering a wonderful landscape. The beach is narrow with pebbles, and there is no parking, only a space that can accommodate 3-4 cars. We suggest that those traveling by car arrive early at the beach to avoid the hassle of parking. To the right of the beach, the path leading to Gidaki beach starts.

Gidaki

It is ranked among the best beaches in Greece and is undoubtedly the most beautiful on the island of Ithaca. Its waters are turquoise, and, apart from the rich vegetation, it is surrounded by steep white rocks that create imposing formations. This exotic landscape, combined with the crystal clear waters, will leave you speechless. The beach is pebbled, and there is a canteen on the left side that offers coffee, refreshments, cocktails, and delicious snacks.

Gidaki is not accessible by road, but there are 2 alternative ways to reach the beach. The first way (and the easiest for many) is by boat, which departs daily from Vathi at 11 am and returns at 5 pm. Our second and favorite way to get to Gidaki is by the path that starts from Skinos. The route takes 30 to 40 minutes, is relaxing, and passes through the pine forest.  We suggest that you wear your sportswear and choose the second way of accessing Gidaki, as the view of the beach from the top of the path will be unforgettable.

Mnimata

Just before the beach of Skinos, among the pine trees, you will find the beach of Mnimata. It is very close to Vathi, about 10 minutes by car, and for this reason, it attracts a lot of people. As in Skinos, the road is narrow but paved, and you can park on the sides.

Mnimata Beach is completely unorganized, and we recommend that you stock up on the right equipment to enjoy it. The waters are clear and shallow with white pebbles, ideal for families with young children. The trees and vegetation around the beach are so dense that, in many places, they reach the sea, offering shade and coolness until midday, when the sun returns. The waters are sheltered and turquoise, mirroring the verdant hillside. About The name of the beach comes from the abbreviation of the word messages. It is said that in earlier times, it was the location used to send and receive messages. The beach’s location was favorable for this purpose, as it is the closest beach to Vathi that faces the sea.

Sarakiniko

Next to the busy Filiatro, you will find the double beach of Sarakiniko. Both beaches are pebbly, and the first one is used by fishermen to anchor their boats. From the first beach, you follow a short path and reach the second and larger one. Here, the pebbles are white, the water is clear, and the vegetation of olive and holly trees reaches all the way to the sea. On the second beach, we also saw many campers, although free camping is prohibited.

Both beaches are unorganized and have relatively little parking, so we recommend stocking up on essentials. However, just before the beach you will find the very nice beach bar Leas, where you can have your coffee and refreshment and enjoy their snacks.

Kourvoulia

On the road from Frikes to Kioni, you will find the 3 small beaches, Kourvoulia. All 3 beaches are pebbly, with crystal-clear, turquoise waters and dense vegetation that reaches the sea. The first one is the smallest and is not easily visible from the road. After Frikes, immediately after the first turn, you will see the built steps, and from there you will descend to the white pebbles of the beach. The second Kourvoulia is the most famous beach, as it attracts many young people and families staying in the surrounding accommodation. Here, too, you will descend the built steps that lead to the beach. Finally, the third Kourvoulia is the longest beach in both width and length. There is a small plateau on the side of the road where you can park your car.

Platia Ammos

In the northern part of the island is Platia Ammos beach, which many consider to be the best exotic beach in Ithaca. As its name suggests, the beach is wide with fine white sand, and its waters are crystal clear and clear. Access is only by sea with a boat from Vathi. It is completely unorganized, and in summer, especially in August, it is filled with boats, sailing boats, and yachts.

Things to do in Ithaca, Greece

Vathi

Built amphitheatrically on the deep bay, Vathi is the capital of Ithaca and retains a charm that will impress you. The architecture of the houses is influenced by Venetian domination; they are colorful, two-story, with tiled roofs and narrow balconies, creating a picturesque and traditional landscape. This landscape is completed with the imposing mansions, stone paths, and elegant shops, which create the right atmosphere for your holiday.

The special feature of Vathi is the small island of Lazaretto, located in the middle of the harbor. In the past, it was used as a purgatory and a prison; today, it is overgrown with pine trees, and only the chapel of Sotiras has been preserved.

Kioni

One of the most beautiful villages of Ithaca and perhaps the whole Ionian Sea. Kioni is built amphitheatrically, starting high up on Rachi and reaching the sea at the closed, picturesque harbor. Colorful houses with tiled roofs, dense greenery among them, olive and cypress trees, courtyards full of flowers, and narrow paved roads complete the picturesque landscape. In the port, you will find many beautiful shops, cafes, ouzeri, and taverns, and it is worth seeing the 3 traditional windmills at the port entrance.

Frikes

Frikes is a picturesque fishing village with about 50 permanent residents. The port attracts many boats, as it is an ideal starting point for trips to the surrounding beaches. Next to the sea, you have many options for coffee, traditional food, and drinks.

Read our complete guide to Kefalonia

Cave of the Nymphs

The Cave of Nymphs (or Marmarospilia) is located at an altitude of 190 m above the bay of Dexa. According to the cave’s location and shape, it is identified with the Homeric cave where the Phaeacians left Odysseus asleep and where Odysseus later left the gifts of the Phaeacian king Alkinoos. It has two entrances, one at the foot of the hill, which is not accessible, and the second from the asphalt road, from where you enter the cave via a staircase and a 10-meter descent. Inside, you will see many stalactite formations, while the archaeological findings are on display at the Archaeological Museum of Ithaca in Vathi.

Anogi

Anogi is the mountain village of Ithaca, built on the Niritos mountain at an altitude of 550 meters. In the central square of the village is the church of Assumption of the Virgin Mary, which dates back to the 12th century. Inside the church, you will see many holy paintings of saints by Byzantine artists, and you will be impressed by the imposing Venetian bell tower. As you head towards Anogi, the view of Ithaca is amazing, and there are many places along the road where you can leave your car and admire it.

Ithaca, Greece & Odysseus — Following the Myth

Ithaca’s greatest draw is its mythological identity as the kingdom of Odysseus (Ulysses), the hero of Homer’s Odyssey. Whether the Homeric Ithaca is truly this island remains debated among scholars, but the island has fully embraced its legendary identity — and the atmosphere of mystery and ancient history is palpable.

Key mythology sites:

Odysseus’ Palace (near Stavros): The Palace of Odysseus has never been definitively found, but the area around Stavros in northern Ithaca is the most likely candidate. Visit Stavros Square, where a detailed reconstruction model of the palace is displayed. The nearby Archaeological Museum of Stavros houses Mycenaean and Neolithic artifacts supporting the connection.

Ithaca Ruins — Castle of Odysseus (Alalkomenes): An archaeological site near Aetos with ruins of a hilltop settlement. A steep path from St George’s church leads to spectacular views over both parts of the island.

Cave of the Nymphs (Marmarospilia): Identified with the Homeric cave where the Phaeacians left Odysseus sleeping. Located 190m above Dexa Bay, accessible from the asphalt road. Inside: beautiful stalactite formations.

School of Homer (Pelikata): Archaeological site near Stavros with Neolithic and Mycenaean finds, believed by some to be the location of the palace.

Lazaretto Islet: The tiny fortified island in the middle of Vathy harbor, once a quarantine station and now one of the most charming views on Ithaca.

Food and beverage

Cantounis: This is a traditional tavern in Vathi, next to the sea. This lovely place, with friendly staff, will offer you delicious food at affordable prices and in large portions.

Rementzo: It is located in Frikes, by the sea, and for us it was the best choice for dining. Apart from its location in the picturesque fishing village, overlooking the sea and the boats, the staff is helpful, and the food is delicious. Among others, we singled out the onion pie and linguini with prosciutto, and the banoffee for dessert. All their dishes are carefully prepared with special flavors, and the prices are commensurate with the quality. We recommend booking a table before you arrive at the restaurant because it fills up quickly.

Piccolo: The location is ideal, as it overlooks the picturesque harbor of the seaside village. Their coffee is very good, and they offer many breakfast options, including pancakes, waffles, fruit salads, smoothies, and snacks. In the evening, the shop becomes more romantic, with the village lights casting a glow over the sea and creating a different atmosphere. There is a wide variety of cocktails, and we were satisfied both times we visited.

Accommodation in Ithaca

For our accommodation, we chose Captain Yiannis Hotel in Vathi. From the moment we arrived at the hotel, we were greeted by Mr. Stefanos, a helpful man who was willing to help us with our luggage.  He gave us all the information we needed to enjoy this beautiful island and showed us how hospitable the people of Ithaca are. The rooms are renovated, with thoughtful furnishings and soft colors, and all the amenities you will need. Next to the hotel’s pool, we enjoyed our breakfast in the dining room and our coffee and snacks throughout the day.

Captain Yiannis‘ location is on the east side of the bay, and his rooms have a spectacular view of the whole bay, the picturesque houses in Vathi, and the mountains behind Vathi. We enjoyed this view from the spacious balcony of our room. The hotel is located 700 meters from the main square in Vathi, an ideal location close to the shops and the port, yet away from the crowds and hustle and bustle.

Useful Sites & apps

In the last few years, we have been travelling we have singled out some applications, which we use before every trip or during it. We have chosen them over others for their validity, ease of use, and variety in the options they have to offer. We describe below in detail what these are, together with their characteristics.

Booking.com

Booking.com is a popular online booking platform for accommodations worldwide. With a vast selection of hotels, apartments, villas, and more, Booking.com offers travelers the convenience of finding and booking their ideal stay in just a few clicks. The site’s user-friendly interface and extensive filtering options make it easy to narrow down search results based on specific preferences such as price, location, amenities, and more. As a result, Booking.com has become a go-to destination for travelers looking for hassle-free booking options. With competitive pricing and a loyalty program that rewards repeat bookings, Booking.com is a top choice for travelers seeking great deals and a seamless booking experience. Check available rooms and prices on Booking.com.

Hotels.com

Hotels.com is a leading provider of hotel accommodation worldwide, offering booking services through its own network of localized websites. Once you reach 10 nights, you’ll have a free night, which you can apply at checkout. You can earn multiple free nights by continuing to book with Hotels.com, though. The platform gives travelers one of the widest selections of accommodation on the net, including both independent and major chain hotels as well as self-catering in over hundreds of thousands of properties worldwide. The company offers a one-stop shopping source for hotel pricing, amenities, and availability. Find the best deals on Hotels.com.

TripAdvisor

TripAdvisor helps hundreds of millions of people each month become better travelers, from planning to booking to taking a trip. Travelers across the globe use the Tripadvisor site and app to discover where to stay, what to do, and where to eat based on guidance from those who have been there before. With more than 1 billion reviews and opinions of nearly 8 million businesses, travelers turn to Tripadvisor to find deals on accommodations, book experiences, reserve tables at delicious restaurants, and discover great places nearby. Find available offers and book your accommodation on TripAdvisor.

Ferryscanner

For ferry tickets to all of Greece, as well as destinations like Italy and Turkey. Immediate service and cooperation with the largest services in Greece on Ferryscanner.

Skyscanner

Skyscanner is a leading global travel search engine, helping millions of travelers find the best flights, hotels, and car rentals. With a user-friendly interface and powerful search technology, Skyscanner makes it easy to compare prices and options across hundreds of travel providers, giving you the best deals for your trip. From budget to luxury, domestic to international, Skyscanner has everything you need to plan your next adventure. So whether you’re traveling for business or leisure, start your journey with Skyscanner and discover the world like never before. Available flights and prices can be found on Skyscanner.

Discover Cars 

DiscoverCars.com offers a hassle-free car rental booking experience, with a wide range of rental car options available worldwide. Whether you’re traveling for business or pleasure, DiscoverCars.com offers competitive rates, 24/7 customer support, and flexible cancellation policies. With no hidden fees and a user-friendly interface, booking your rental car has never been easier. Choose from a variety of car rental options, including economy, luxury, and family-friendly vehicles, and enjoy the freedom of the open road on your next adventure. Book with DiscoverCars.com today and start exploring the world on your own terms!

Ithaca, Greece FAQ — Everything you need to know